Key West is known by many names: Cayo Hueso, the Conch Republic, the Southernmost City, but most of the time it's just called Paradise. I began my journey to rediscover Paradise by leaving a chilly, rain-soaked Boston and landing in Key West where I was greeted with sunshine and warm temps. A good start! Now the reason I needed to RE-discover Paradise is that I lived there for almost five years and left to work in Las Vegas and on a ship which took me around the world. During my years away I often recalled very fond memories of this island city and had frequently wondered if moving back was to be part of my path. So, how better to give these thoughts some room to grow than to spend a week celebrating my birthday in the city at the end of US Route 1?
Soon after arriving I was bicycling around the island on a beat-up loaner – a woman’s bike with ape-hanger handle bars. I was a bit wobbly at first, but I didn't care because I was on a bicycle again. Bicycling is a great way to see the island in detail, and in congested Old Town it is much easier to park a bicycle than a car. Because I was visiting in May, the island was awash with blooming trees and shrubs. My favorites: the umbrella-shaped canopies of the Royal Poinciana alight with blood orange colored blossoms, night air filled with the irresistible scent of Frangipani, and Bougainvillea which blooms everywhere in a painter's palette of color. The light here is sharper and more intense as compared to the more gentle Northern light. Colors are so enhanced that the sight of vivid blossoms surrounded by varied shades of green and backed by a deeply-hued blue sky is almost mesmerizing.
As I have always advised visitors: to visit an island like Key West and not go out on the water is almost a crime. Following my own advice I booked a snorkeling trip on the Blu Q, my favorite catamaran. The sky that day was almost cloudless and the water was a dreamy 86 degrees! At one point I was kneeling on a submerged sandbar with the water only chest-high while enjoying the warmth and sipping sangria. That’s hard to beat!
As odd as it may sound, my favorite place on the island is the Key West Cemetery. Almost all of the graves are above ground due to the island’s low-lying topography and high water table. I used to bicycle along the peaceful lanes between the graves at every opportunity, though now I am told that public access is limited. One evening I gazed through the fence down the length of the cemetery at the orange-hued, newly-risen full moon and this spectacle was being rivaled by an approaching lightning storm which revealed towering thunder clouds with each dramatic flash.
Speaking of moonlight, I’ve always loved how the tin roofs of the old wooden homes glowingly reflect the lunar light. It adds a touch of mystery and magic to a nighttime ride or stroll.
And I can't forget about the restaurants! Key West is well-known for its food, music, and bars ranging from the honky-tonk to the sophisticated. Some of my favorites are: Nine One Five where I dined on a series of small plates including devils on horseback, tuna tartare, a cone of fries with aioli, and a great glass of syrah; Square One with Patrick (aka Patticakes) holding court behind the bar where I feasted on duck pad thai while sipping one of the best martinis around; Sunday brunch at Croissants de France sitting under the twisting branches of a 150 year old Spanish Lime tree; Banana Cafe where I got a welcome back hug from Danny, a delightful French woman, and enjoyed my favorite dish of smoked salmon with cream cheese and capers on toasted French bread (in lieu of the normal bagel); and of course I can’t forget Camille's, owned by Michael and Denise, mostly because I used to work there part-time, where lunch consisted of crab cakes benedict and a delicious con leche (Key West shorthand for a café con leche).
At the end of the week I left Key West with a suntan, a relaxed look on my face, and sore muscles (darn that bicycle!), but still didn’t know if moving back was in the cards. But, heck, it sure is tempting!
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